Cool Miniature Bar!
18 Nov 2008
1/12 scale. Miniature bar. This is pretty cool! Hard to tell it isn’t real once there is nothing showing its actual size!
Duration : 0:0:42
Dollhouse Decoration Troubleshooting
18 Oct 2008
There are a few specific areas of dollhouse decoration that seem to cause difficulties. Here are some potential problems and some solutions.
Painting Exterior Window Frames:
Paint the exterior wall first and leave to dry completely. Then fix masking tape onto the wall around each window before painting the frame. I recommend 48 hours drying time for the paint on the facade before applying the masking tape.
Decorating the Outside of a Half-Timbered Dollhouse:
This is a similar problem, but the sequence should be reversed. Stain or varnish the timbers before you deal with the walls. Then add cladding cut to fit the spaces and cover up any smudges of stain on the walls. To simulate a plastered finish use a painted sheet of thin textured card.
Painting or Papering Around a Fixed-In Staircase:
Most dollhouse staircases can be taken out for decoration. If it is fixed in place, you can deal with it, slowly and with a lot of patience. Varnishing should always be done before painting. If the stair treads and hand rail are to be varnished, do this first. When dry, cover the stairs with masking tape before painting the balusters.
Painting Low Ceilings in Small Rooms:
Cut the paintbrush handle to the length needed so that you can easily reach inside the room. Sponge-tipped applicators (sold in packets for applying eye makeup) can also be very useful in those tight corners and are cheap enough to be disposable. Check the applicator periodically during use to make sure that the sponge tip doesn’t fall off.
Order of Interior Decoration:
As a general rule, if anything might drip on to the surface below, paint it first. For example, ceilings before walls. Even though you may mask the lower surface, there is always the possibility of a paint drip or smudge which can then be removed before the next stage without spoiling an already painted or varnished surface.
Dollhouse Decoration Checklist
18 Oct 2008
There is nothing more frustrating than getting to the furnishing stage and realizing you missed something. So, I have devised a dollhouse decoration checklist for after your house is built and before adding the furnishings in order to be sure that you do not leave out any important steps.
__ Smooth over both exterior and interior surfaces with fine sandpaper.
__ Fill any cracks and allow to dry.
__ Make sure the dollhouse is free of dust before you begin painting. (A vacuum with a fine attachment works well.)
__ Paint both exterior and interior walls with quick drying primer or undercoat.
__ Apply two coats of emulsion to the ceilings. One coat is sufficient if you plan any special treatment later.
__ Paint the exterior walls and the roof.
__ Paint window and door frames.
__ Paint the front door. (Door fixtures can be fitted afterwards or you may want to wait until all decorating is complete.
__ Fit any lighting.
__ Make and site any chimneys.
__ Fit fireplaces.
__ Make any required additions to the staircase such as balusters, newel posts and side panels.
__ Install flooring.
__ Install internal doors.
__ Paint interior walls in your chosen colors or wallpaper if desired.
__ Add wallpaper borders.
__ Fit door frames.
__ Cut, paint and fit all wall trims such as baseboards, crown moldings and other trim moldings.
__ Cut and fit window glazing and internal window frames.
Dollhouse Wallpapering Made Easy
17 Oct 2008
With the exception of cottage and ultra-modern interiors, which in general look best simply color washed, most dollhouse rooms can be wallpapered. Anything which can be pasted onto a wall is wallpaper, even fabric or card. There are many places in which to purpose pre-printed dollhouse wallpapers. Specialist paper shops and some stationers stock large sheets of both machine and handmade papers in attractive colors. As well as patterned designs, there are textured papers which will give the effect of a plastered wall, and you can color wash over these to create a new color scheme in each room. The cost and size of a large sheet will vary but one such sheet will in general be no more expensive than buying several smaller pieces of miniaturized wallpaper.
Giftwrap designs are very useful for dollhouse wallpaper, and you may often find some unique border patterns using this method. Another source of wallpaper is to use magazines and brochures, where there is often a color page simply begging to be used as a background. I suggest starting a collection of anything that you may feel would come in useful and organize them into a small collapsible file case or box. Keep them organized by style or color and they will be sure to come in handy for a project down the road, and may even inspire a new idea.
It is quicker and easier to wallpaper a dollhouse room in 1:24 scale than it is to wallpaper a room in 1:12 scale. Make a paper pattern of each wall from used photocopy paper or stiff brown paper, and use it as a template to cut the wallpaper pieces. You can cover two walls with one piece, so that there is no need to match the pattern at the corner, but to avoid problems, use a separate piece for a wall with a doorway, window or fireplace. Textured paper can be butted together at the corners, where an overlap would form a ridge. The join will be unnoticeable because of the raised finish.
Test which adhesive works the best before pasting on unusual papers. Wallpaper paste will not work well on some textured or handmade papers. Paste a small test piece on to card and allow to dry before checking to see whether it has stuck firmly. Thick papers and card may need a trail of general purpose glue around the edges in addition to paste all over, to prevent them from curling up.
NOTE: Never use paper glue on magazine cuttings as it will cause wrinkles when it dries. Fix magazine cuttings on to white card before affixing that to the dollhouse.
It is worth sizing the walls first if you are using dollhouse wallpaper. Brush on a thin coat of wallpaper paste and leave until dry to the touch. Paste the paper making sure you cover the corners well. Smooth down by pressing all over with a pad of toilet tissues. DO NOT RUB. Rubbing may cause wrinkles or even tears in thin paper.
Other uses for leftover wallpaper:
Use leftover scraps of wallpaper to line shelves and drawers or to liven up an alcove in a plainly painted room, or make a lampshade. Click on the image below for the printable version in 1:12 scale for these lampshade styles. Print onto or print and trace these onto the paper of choice, cut out and assemble. Also you may want to CLICK HERE to view The Dollhouse & Miniatures Blog Printable Wallpaper Selection.
Painting a Dollhouse & Miniatures
16 Oct 2008
One of the first things that young children learn in school is to enjoy using paint. This enjoyment may continue into adult hobbies, and one of the most rewarding has to be decorating dolls’ houses. The decorations will not have to stand up to everyday wear and tear. You can achieve anything from simplicity to ornate effects and gain an immense feeling of satisfaction without having aching muscles afterwards. You can also use your talent creatively to produce worn , aged looking effects. It beats full size decorating every time. Don’t be afraid to experiment with color, but try out your mixes on card before beginning on the dollhouse.
Some suitable types of paint for dollhouse decoration are as follows:
Decorators Paints - Modern paint manufacturers produce historically accurate “heritage” colors. These are available in inexpensive sample sizes which are ideal for the dolls house decorator.
Textured Paints - Textured paints will create the effect of a roughly plastered wall, or a garden path. Brush on one coat before color washing. Look out for textured stencil paints in small sizes.
Gouache - this is supplied in tubes and there is a huge range of colors available. It is an ideal paint for producing unusual glowing colors. Mix a few drops with water based emulsion and dilute with a little water to use as a color wash on walls. It can be wiped off before it dries thoroughly and futher color can be added tp give a random effect. Finish with a coat of varnish because it it not waterproof.
Acrylic Paint - This is also supplied in tubes ready to mix with water based emulsion and is easy to use and is quick drying. Mix as for gouache. To color wash on wooden furniture, add water only. Finish with a coat of matt varnish.
Varnish - Varnishes are available as clear (gloss), matt, semi-matt, or colored. Gloss is too shiny to use on 1:24 scale models and colored varnish should be used with caution as it is thicker than clear varnish. Matt or semi-matt finishes are the best choice for 1:24 scale dollhouses.
Woodstain - Not exactly a paint, but ideal for coloring wooden Tudor beams and furniture. Wipe on with a cloth or a cotton bud. It is quick drying.
Model Enamel - Useful for front doors, stair rails and balusters, and metal ornaments. No undercoat is necessary and one coat will cover well and dry quickly. Gloss, matt, semi-matt, and metallic finishes are available, as well as the new, seemingly magical finish Metalcote, which transforms wood or card into metal in a matter of minutes.
Hints on painting
1. Provided you seal tubes and cans properly after use, modern paints keep well, often for years, so that you can aquire a useful stock of different finishes to be used when you think of new ideas for decoration on furniture or accessories.
2. If you are using up paint from a large can, decant some into a yogurt pot and reseal the main can while you work. It is natural to wipe the brush on the edge of the container each time you dip it into the paint and this can cause a sticky build up which will prevent the can from closing properly.
3. A painted marble effect looks good on table tops. Use model enamel or acrylic paint to add one or two colors over a base coat. Find a pictured example to copy and you will find it is pretty easy. The secret is to brush on the paint gently with feather light strokes.
Choosing Paintbrushes
Size 3/8 inch (approx 10mm) or 1/2 inch (appox 13mm) decorator’s paint brushes are the most suitable for painting dollhouse walls and roofs. For smaller details you will need artist’s brushes from size 0 to 5. Do not buy the top quality which are very expensive and too soft for painting wooden surfaces. The cheapest artist brushes are ideal, firm enough for the purpose and not too costly to throw them away before they become completely worn out.
There are many short stages in decorating each part of a miniature house or object, using a variety of paints, and brushes will need to be cleaned or washed many more times than with normal use. Replace as soon as necessary to achieve good results.
NOTE: For a perfect finish, always begin on a new dollhouse project with new paintbrushes.
Care of paintbrushes
- Never use the same paintbrush for paint and varnish. Keep a separate brush for each purpose.
- Clean brushes immediately after use. Emulsion paint, gouache, and acrylic can be washed out with water. Clean with white spirits (mineral spirits) after using undercoat, decorator’s paint, model enamel or varnish and finish with a wash in water with a little liquid detergent added.
Dollhouse Tools and Adhesives
16 Oct 2008
Dollhouse decoration is like creating a stage set. If an economical idea or easy to use material works and looks good then there is no need to do something more complicated. The finished effect is the important thing, not how you achieve it.
NEVER work when you are tired, because it is then that mistakes are most likely to occur. Wait until another day to finish off flooring or put in skirting boards. Also, plan carefully. It will be well worth it even though you may be longing to start on the actual decorations. Remember that you are not only furnishing and decorating rooms, but also creating a lifestyle. This can be wealthy or folksy, but work on a consistent theme so that it can be reflected in the living arrangements. Whether you are tackling a complete dollhouse or an individual room setting, careful planning will make all the difference to the finished product.
Do some research:
Check out the details of your chosen dollhouse style and period. It can be extremely useful to look at pictures in magazines and books related to period homes. You may want to update the interior of a period house or in a more modern house, include fashions for styles which recur periodically.
Tools:
For general dollhouse decoration and fittings, the minimum of simple tools is sufficient. For 1:24 scale work, only the following tools are essential:
- Cutting mat with a squared grid
- Craft knife with replaceable blades
- metal ruler with raised edge, for use as a cutting guide
- sharp scissors
- small screwdrivers
- pencils
- pencil sharpener
- masking tape 1/2 inch wide
Here are some of these tools available below:
Safety First:
Treat all cutting tools with respect. When using a craft knife, always check before you cut that your free hand is behind the blade and not in front of it. Never use cutting tools if you are tired. It is too easy to make a mistake and always easy to forget you are holding a knife so put the knife down between cuts while you are adjusting or checking your work. If the blade is not retractable, store it safely by digging it into a cork.
Adhesives:
A general purpose clear adhesive is suitable to fix most internal fittings in 1:24 scale as there sill not be any thick wooden pieces which might need something stronger. To fix down card flooring again use a general purpose adhesive, taking care to use a sufficient amount around the edges to make sure that they do not lift up. Wait until the glue becomes tacky before pressing the card into place. Alternatively, attach the card with double sided adhesive tape, stick the adhesive tape to the floor first and then press the card on top. I have included some adhesives below that I have found come in quite handy for some of my miniature creations:
Never leave dollhouse tools and adhesives in reach of children.
Deciding on a Dollhouse Style
16 Oct 2008
Once you have decided whether to assemble a kit or but one ready made, there is another choice, an architectural style. Unless you plan to have an updated, modern interior, your decorative schemes, patterns and furnishings will all be an extension of the period house itself.
A genuine English Tudor dollhouse is unique. It evokes the atmosphere of it’s history through it’s richly dark, oak filled rooms with many paned leaded windows, beamed ceilings and the patina of age. An eighteenth century house in New England holds much enchantment too, with elegant rooms containing furniture which is subtly different from the English equivalent.
A French peasant farmhouse is a joy to miniaturize also if you like distressing paintwork, whereas the English or American farm will be more likely to be portrayed as well cared for. For modern ideas, you need look no further than the houses in the nearest town or city, or failing that, the pages of home decoration magazines, which, to me at least, are never a failing source of inspiration.
There are many variations on Tudor style. One could choose either a dollhouse with medieval origins, to a tall town mansion. The exterior of a Tudor house can be more tricky to decorate than a plain classical facade, but it is definitely worth every effort. Tudor houses have existed for over four hundred years, and many real houses are still lived in comfortably today with the interiors updated to retain period features, but with the added benefits of modern plumbing and central heating. The dollhouse hobbyist can also have the best of both worlds with a Tudor house and an updated interior.
The English cottage is another great style. It is a first choice for many dollhouse hobbyists, especially those who would really like to live in and own the real thing. The miniature cottage always turns out quite pretty and most dolls’ cottage exteriors are fully furnished by the maker, so that only interior decoration is necessary. In reality however, such buildings are undoubtedly picturesque, but originally they were cramped and often also damp. The dolls’ house version is enchanting if somewhat romanticized by the omission of these flaws.
Cottages are not confined to the depths of the country. Attractively painted, simple cottages which were originally dwellings for fishermen, have now become holiday homes in many seaside towns. For the miniaturist, a 1/24 cottage of this type can be great fun to decorate and furnish, with fishy items included to show its original purpose, or otherwise updated to modern use. A twentieth century beach chalet or beach hut is the ideal smaller seaside project, complete with whiffs of nostalgia for childhood holidays.
The smaller Edwardian house, a mass produced version of the revamped Tudor style, influenced suburban house building for years to come. Inside, the fashion for oak furniture was almost an obligation.
The Tudor revival continued until the outbreak of the Second World War, when house building in Britain virtually ceased. Rows of identical, suburban houses all had their gable ends and mock beams. These house were built well and comfortable. For many people living in this type of house today, this project’s rooms could be finished in Art Deco or modern style.
Georgian Style is a perennial favourite and in 1:24 it is easily possible to have a complete mansion which doesn’t take up a lot of space.
Victorian houses have plenty of detail on the facade, and the rooms can be filled with miniatures, as ornament and decoration is the essence of this style. A Victorian style dollhouse is a good choice for someone who wants to create a lived in look. The kitchen in this style is often the favorite for many.
Charles Rennie Mackintosh has had a continuing influence on modern design, and his color schemes and furniture are currently enjoying a revival. He was the first truly modern architect and designer, the forerunner of Bauhaus style and Art Deco, both of which followed his lead in using white with other strong color accents. His distinctive style is equally impressive when miniaturized and has become popular with hobbyists who like the challenge of modern design.
Mackintosh was influenced by traditional Japanese style, and his cool sparsely furnished interiors were a deliberate contrast to the overfilled rooms in vogue when he began hi career.
A one or two room house with a good sized window on the ground floor could be used as a shop and there are many purpose built dollhouse shops available. Many miniaturists enjoy shops because they are so versatile. They can be used as either a display unit for a collection of miniatures, as storage for pieces awaiting transfer, pt cpmbined with living accommodations for the shopkeeper.
When looking for a particular style, doors and windows provide instant identification to both period and modern dollhouse styles. The doors of a medieval styled dollhouse are often arched on top with large carved wooden figures on either side of the door and large metal hinges and fixtures. For the Tudor style, seek heavy beams atop leaded windows and stonework on the exterior walls. Roses around the door is everyones idea of the typical English cottage as well as nostalgic country accents. The Georgian entrance is detailed with pediment and pilasters. The windows are the typical six over six arrangement of panes and the railings and handrail to the front steps indicate a town rather than a country house depending on the style. Edwardian style had stained glass panels and square bay windows and Edwardians saw nothing strange about mixing features from different periods. For example, a door topped with a Georgian style pediment, while the gable may show fake rather than integral timbers based on the Tudor style. Art Deco influence shows strongly in curved porches, and oval windows in the front door as well as rounded bay windows rather than square.
Winston Miniature Show
09 Oct 2008
Miniature showONE OF A KIND MINIATURE BOOKS
09 Oct 2008
Individually handmade one of a kind miniature books by Pat Carlson. Music by Tonal Carnage.
Duration : 0:3:30
Choosing Your Dollhouse
29 Sep 2008
Whether you are new to the dollhouse & miniatures hobby or a seasoned dollhouse & miniatures veteran, you will probably have some idea of the type of dolls house you want. Whether it be town or country, formal or informal, period or modern - there is plenty of styles to choose from. Beginners may want to tackle a simpler project at first, such as a room box or simpler 2 floor, 4 room dollhouse. Beginners may prefer also to include standard room arrangements, such as a combined kitchen and living room into one large room.
Here are some examples to consider. You may find something that matches your ideas or even set you off in a whole new direction. If ever possible visit some miniature shows before you buy anything, and send for makers catalogues to look through by looking in the advertisements section of dollhouse magazines.
Assembling a Dollhouse from a Kit:
This option will appeal to many dollhouse hobbyists. Assembly requires no carpentry skills and is usually achieved by assembling the slot-together sections. If you have assembled a dollhouse kit before you will have a good idea of how long it may take to complete the project. Many kits are chalked full of detail and are likely to have plenty of interest in the form of porches, balconies and intriguingly shaped roofs with turrets. The basic structure will be of thin wood as it is intended to be covered over with surface decoration. Siding and shingles may be provided with your kit, or available as optional extras.
Some hints for kit builders:
- Check first that all parts are included in the kit. Lay out the pieces and familiarize yourself with them.
-Read the instructions provided, check the parts mentioned at each stage of the assembly and make sure that you understand how they fit together.
- Sand each piece with fine glasspaper, grade 000.
- Check that any pre-cut slots or grooves are the right size to take slot-in parts. You may need to make minute adjustments by sanding these to ensure a proper fit.
- Assemble each stage dry and check that all is correct before using wood glue. Once the glue is set it will be impossible to undo.
- While the glue is setting, it is best to hold the pieces firmly together with masking tape, because it will take several hours until the full strength is achieved.
- Ensure that the walls and floors are at right angles or you could end up with a leaning house. Check the angles with a set square. It is advisable to make a jig to support the structure while the glue dries. If you do not have an appropriately equipped workshop, make a jig by using blocks of wood with perfectly squared cornersor improvise by using piles of books.
- It can be useful to paint structures and other internal feature before fixing them in place. Check whether some of the room decoration might be done more easily before assembly.
- Allow plenty of time and don’t rush. This should be a relaxing time and it will take longer than you anticipate so enjoy each stage of the build and take all the time needed. You will be rewarded with a beautifully assembled dollhouse kit in the end.
Choosing a Ready-Made Dollhouse:
If time is a factor and you just want to get to the decoration, then you may want to choose a ready made dollhouse. The cheapest ready-made house will be a basic shell, leaving you to decorate inside and out. Most such houses are architecturally accurate versions of period houses, made of strong plywood, or MDF (medium density fibreboard), which will look equally good with a simple painted finish or with realistic cladding added. Internal features such as chimneys and fireplaces may be provided.
Not everyone wants to undertake the entire decoration themselves, and more expensive houses may be offered with the exterior finished, leaving you to concentrate on the interior only. This type of house is a great choice if you want, for example, a thatched cottage, or a townhouse with elaborate architectural detail, which you might prefer the maker to provide.
More expensively, you can custom order a house from a craftsman who will provide everything you specify. You will be able to ask for the type of finish you want, and decide exactly how much decoration will be included. Such a house would be an heirloom to pass on to your family and will provide many years of enjoyment. The price may be considerable, but it should be a good investment.
Room Boxes and Vignettes:
The dollhouse & miniatures hobby is not only about complete dolls houses. It also includes single room settings, arranged in open front room boxes. These individual scenes are delightful projects to tackle and allow the hobbyist more freedom to explore many different styles and periods. A series of room sets also take up very little space and look great on a bookshelf or cubby.
A vignette, which can be hung on the wall is also a great space saver. The box should only be 2-3 inches deep and the front surrounded by a picture frame. There is enough depth for a scene which will give the illusion of a three dimensional room and yet takes up no more wall space than a small picture. These are also great to make and give as gifts as are room boxes.
Room boxes are practical because they can be moved easily and if your only work surface is a table or desk that may be needed for other uses throughout the day, this could be necessary. They can be a complete project or simply a try-out for decorating and furnishing a dollhouse later on. With room boxes, you can truly see if the particular style you are working on really appeals to you or not.
Wooden room boxes can be purchased with a glass front to ensure that the contents are free from dust and are available ready made or as a kit. A box made from foamboard or bookboard is rigid and reasonably strong and you can make your own very easily.
I will be showing you later on in my videos how to make room boxes and vignettes. These are my preference today, as I find it easy to work on many different styles at any given time.
Here is a few dollhouses and kits that you may want to look at and get an idea for what you are looking for. If you prefer to build from scratch, there are some excellent dollhouse books and dollhouse plans here as well.
Next I will be discussing the styles of dollhouses and hopefully be of some help in deciding on a style for your next dollhouse & miniatures project.
Dollhouse & Miniatures enthusiasts, collectors and modellers alike, both amateur and professional, tend to have a scale that they prefer. Whether you intend to produce a completely accurate replica or a fantasy, scale is very important. Models are almost always smaller than the original. The exception is the kind of model that is built for educational reasons such as models of the human body and their parts for biology studies. For dollhouse & miniature enthusiasts, it is the miniaturization that is the key attraction of the hobby and professional modelling.
When building or collecting dollhouses and miniatures, it is scale that determines the proportional relationship between all of the components. In simpler terms, if you model a bakery, it makes sense then to have a baker in the right proportion to the bakery itself as well as the baked goods and appliances. A baker made in 1/12 scale, also known as 1:12 scale or one inch to the foot, would look like a giant in a 1/24 scale shop. 1/24 scale is also known as 1:24 scale or one half inch to the foot. However, there may be an occasion where you wish to exploit disparities in a scale. For example, you may want your dollhouse to have a dollhouse of its own in which if you were working in 1/12 scale you would then need to build the dollhouse’s dollhouse to 1/144 scale (’N’ gauge in model railway terms). Most dollhouse & miniatures enthusiasts quickly discover that in an average sized home, three or four 1/12 scale dollhouses is a joy to keep. Twenty however, suggests it is time to open a museum.
It may not be advantageous to some to build some projects in 1/12 scale because of limited space. There is a certain amount of space needed for building and setting up your dollhouse and many enthusiasts live in apartments and just do not have the ample room. Therefore, choosing one of the smaller scales such as 1/24 scale or 1/48 scale (1/4 inch per actual foot) would work better and allow them to work from a desk or table.
I have set out the scales that are most commonly used for dollhouses and miniatures as well as other types of modelling. Scales evolve in use for a variety of different reasons. Some are calculated to give the best combination of size and detail accuracy, whereas other scales happen more or less by accident.
The most common scale for dollhouses is one inch to the foot or 1:12 scale. However this blog is not limited to just dollhouses but all miniature modelling projects as well. Thus, it seems right to discuss all types of scale for you which may even help you find a scale that you really seem to enjoy working with.
Types of Scale used:
1:6 scale - also known as ‘ Barbie scale’ (2 inches per actual foot)
1:12 scale - The most common dollhouse & miniatures scale with many furnishings and accessories as well as dolls available for purchase and collection.
1:18 scale - Several super detailed die-cast car ranges are made in this scale.
1:22.5 scale or G gauge - The largest commercially produced size of train scale, depicting narrow gauge trains and 1 3/4 inch (45mm) track. Some scale variations are possible, depending on the full size gauge that 1 3/4 inch is taken to depict.
1:24 scale - A limited number of giant ’super kits’ of model airplanes are made in this scale, covering the most famous fighting aircraft such as the Spitfire, Stuka and P-51 Mustang. Their size can make them vulnerable, but completed aircraft models are most impressive. Because of the scale size, these aircraft models can pose a storage problem. Some die-cast model cars and car kits are available in this scale. This is also a very common dollhouse & miniatures scale with many furnishings and accessories available.
1:32 scale or 1 gauge - Standard gauge trains on 1 3/4 inch (45 mm) track. Some 1:30 scale is used. This scale is also used in model aircraft. Several manufacturers have plastic kits in this large scale which features every detail, inside and out. Many plastic car kits and die cast model cars are to this scale which matches gauge 1 model trains well. This is also the standard model soldier size, well supported, with ready-made cast metal, plastic and kit models. Armed forces vehicles are also modelled to this scale. Army figures are 2 1/4 inch high. Historically accurate furniture and accessories are also available in this scale.
1:35 scale - Though a slightly odd size, this is a well established scale for large military vehicles that originated in Japan. It is slightly smaller than the 1:32/ 54 mm scale that has been the standard for model soldiers for over 100 years. Many plastic army kits and accessories are available in this scale, and it is extremely popular for its bulk, fidelity, and high degree of detail.
1:43 scale - The most popular size for die-cast automobiles with many companies producing an ever-changing range of models at all prices. There are some plastic and metal car kits also. This scale matches well with European O gauge model trains.
1:43.5 scale or O gauge - Standard gauge trains on 1 1/4 inch (32 mm) track. In the United States, the scale used for this gauge is 1/48 or 1/4 inch (6mm) to the foot. In mainland Europe 1:45 scale is used instead.
1:48 scale - Sometimes known as ‘quarter scale’ or 1/4 inch to an actual foot. Where used for model aircraft, this scale gives scope for fine detail on a larger model and is the next favorite scale after 1:72. This is another common dollhouse & miniatures scale also.
1:50 - Used mostly for some model ship kits.
1:64 scale or S gauge - Standard gauge trains on 7/8 inch (22 mm) track. Popular in the United States.
1:72 scale - The most popular scale for model aircraft, with hundreds of plastic kits from many manufacturers. It is a convenient scale, working out at 6 feet to 1 inch.
1:76 scale or OO gauge - This scale is a British variation on HO gauge, where the body scale of the models is slightly enlarged but the models still run on 5/8 inch (16.5 mm) track, which is under gauge for the scale. To correct this, some dedicated British train modellers alter this gauge to 18.2 mm (EM gauge) or 18.83 mm (P4/S4), which are more accurate renditions of the gauge.
1:87 scale or HO gauge - Standard gauge trains on 5/8 inch (16.5 mm) track. The most widely adopted scale in the world of model trains. About 80% of all railway modellers use this gauge. Many European and American companies produce thousands of car models in this scale. It has become a popular collecting scale in recent years, especially in continental Europe, even though the models were originally produced as rail accessories. There are numerous plastic car kits and even some metal ones. Heavy trucks and buses are popular in 1:87 scale. The models are well detailed but occupy little space.
1:120 scale or TT gauge - Standard gauge trains on 1/2 inch (12 mm) track. There is a British variation of this scale which is 1:103 scale running on 1/2 inch track repeating the same scale/gauge error as noted with OO gauge. Some vehicles are produced in this scale also.
1:144 scale - Arrived at by halving 1:72 scale therefore, 1 inch to every 12 actual feet, this gives very small models, usually model aircraft, which are easily stored and displayed. These supplies are suitable for dollhouse dolls. This is the scale used for replicating a dollhouse & miniatures within a 1:12 scale dollhouse.
1:150 - Used mostly for some model ship kits.
1:160 scale or N gauge - Standard gauge trains running on 1 1/16 inch (9 mm) track ( a scale of 1/16inch to the foot). After HO this is the most popular scale for model trains. There is again a British variation of 1:148 scale and the Japanese variation of 1:150 scale on the same track gauge. Both of these give larger scale bodies on the same track gauge and therefore offer a slightly inaccurate scale/gauge relationship. Some vehicles are made in this scale also.
1:200 scale - The smallest model aircraft scale, favored by collectors. Plastic kits and models of large airplanes are often to this scale. Specialist suppliers make cast-metal aircraft (including fighters and bombers) at this scale, and these tiny models have exquisite charm. There are also some model ship kits available in this scale.
1:220 scale or Z gauge - Standard gauge trains running on 9/32 inch (6.5 mm) track. This is the smallest commercially supported model rail scale.
Narrow gauge - There are many possible combinations. Typical is HOM gauge, where model trains to 1:87 scale run on 1.2 inch (12 mm) track, depicting metal gauge. Similarly, Nm gauge uses 1:160 scale trains running on 6.5mm (Z) track depicting metal gauge trains. HOe gauge has model trains to 1:87 scale running on 9 mm (N) gauge track, depicting 750 mm narrow gauge. There are many others and in essence the scale is paired with the most appropriate gauge that is to be depicted.
1:300 scale, 1:350 scale and 1:400 scale, among others - Used mostly for model ship kits.
1:600 scale - This is a well liked scale for ships. 1 inch to 50 actual feet (12 mm to 15 m) with a fair range of plastic and wooden kits.
1:700 scale - This scale was standardized by several Japanese kit makers to produce a high-quality range of waterline warship models. There are many ship kits and this is a good scale for the ship collector. A few ship models and kits are made to 1:720 scale which is visually compatible in this small size.
1:1200 scale - This is a long established “recognition’ scale (1 inch to 100 feet) or (25mm to 30 m) favored by scratch ship builders but also supported by some plastic kits.
The Advantages of Using Smaller Scales:
Some of the advatages of using a smaller scale are pretty obvious. For example, less material is used which can cost less for the builder and is also more mesmerizing when detailed well. Gold leaf can be used more lavishly at the smaller scales as well where this would be expensive in full size. Also for the collector, the smaller the scale the more can be stored in a space.
So now you should have a better idea as to what is available to you in different scales. Hats off to you if you plan to detail everything yourself from scratch but do know that there are many miniature models and accessories out there at your disposal and in a wide range of scales. Have fun choosing a scale and happy creating!
The First Dollhouse Ever Recorded
23 Sep 2008
To date, the earliest known dollhouse evidence is the commission, by Albrect V, Duke of Bavaria, of a dollhouse for his daughter in 1558. He may have thought this a minor part of his life, but because of the importance of his dollhouse, he is better known for this than anything else. He was obviously very pleased with his results as he had put in his house his art collection and, presumably, rarely allowed his daughter to play with it. The story would have ended there, as this miniature dollhouse seems to have been burnt in a fire at the ducal palace in 1674, except that in 1598, both it and it’s contents were carefully inventoried.
This first dollhouse stood four stories high and records tell of the names of the court box-maker, locksmiths and painter who were put to work on the project as their bills still exist today. The records also tell, more or less, where the rooms were.
On the lower floor was stables, a cow shed, coach house, wine cellar, larder and office. On the ground floor was the kitchen and outside a garden and an orchard. The second floor was the most exquisite as it had a ballroom where the Duke and Duchess were looked after by six servants and where their table was covered by a rich carpet, probably from the Orient. There were musical instruments on the table and, on a side table were gold and silver dishes. Next door to that was a bedroom with tapestry lined walls and a fabric hung bed. The third floor had a chapel with a priest and a band of musicians. Beside it was a box-like room stuffed with at least 3 beds plus chairs. This floor also housed nurseries, a work room for spinning and sewing and a second kitchen. This was the good kitchen, home to the good silver and probably where the ladies had informal meals. There was also a room to store the armor and also a lion house. The lion was the heraldic insignia of the Dukes of Bavaria.
There is no doubt that with its age and size and intricacies that had this house survived it would have been a real viewing pleasure and probably one of the best dollhouses ever made.
Miniature Antique Wicker Dollhouse Furniture
23 Sep 2008
Janice Surette has been making authentic looking miniature dollhouse furniture. Antique wicker dollhouse furniture to be exact. Her techniques, materials and creativity are what is creating some of the most real wicker antique miniatures I have ever seen. She is truly an amazing artist and much deserves her 15 minutes of fame. See the rest of her story HERE.
Dollhouses reached the peak of their popularity from the late 19th century to the 1950s. Many mass-produced dollhouses and their furnishings survived in good condition and are greatly sought after.
Some of the very first dollhouses were constructed by cabinetmakers in the 16th and 17th centuries. They were models of the homes of the wealthy and were created solely for display. The earliest surviving American dollhouse is dated 1744. It was a special commission for a wealthy Boston family and it’s home is in the Van Cortlandt Museum in New York City. It was not until the 19th century that doll’s houses became toys. Many examples made from the 1930s-1950s can be found today for $200-$600 USD or more.
The age and the rarity of the early dollhouses is what makes them valuable. A basic 17th century European doll’s cabinet was sold in 1999 for more than $26,000. The size and quality as well as the original furniture and decoration play a key role in the overall value, whatever the era. A modest late 19th century dollhouse may be found for between $800-$1500 but many have been known to cost around $1500-$9000 or more. In the mid 19th century, very fine wooden dollhouses were made by carpenters in the style of grand New York brownstone townhouses. They were frequently extravagently furnished and can now command prices of between $1500-$4000. Some houses were painted or repapered which does decrease the value.
In 1889, Bliss Dollhouses became the trend. They were houses made of lithographed paper which was glued to a wooden frame. They came in a range of dollhouse styles. Bliss is one of the best known and well sought after US dollhouse manufacturers. Rufus Bliss of Pawtucket, Rhode Isalnd began making his dollhouse furniture in 1832 and turned to making dollhouses in 1889. His houses were moderately priced, and due to their success, they were and still are often copied. In order to know you have spotted a real Bliss Dollhouse, take a closer look for these key features:
-Constructed from wood which is them covered with printed paper in a wide array of colors.
-Look for printed brickwork and other arcitectural features such as printed turned wooden balusters.
-The design always includes typical charachteristics of American houses of the period such as porches, balconies, gables, and balustrades.
-The Bliss name is often hidden in the printed designs. It is usually found on doors, floors or under gables.
A Bliss two-story dollhouse opening to reveal children asleep in their beds on the second floor and children playing with dolls on the first floor, common but slight bubbling in the paper, a few missing stairs and some slight paper replacement, still fetches a decent price of between $800-$1200 depending on the condition. (see picture for similar house)
In 1884 the McLoughlin Brothers of New York launched a new folding dollhouse. This affordable cardboard dollhouse could be assembled at home from flat board printed with wallpaper and floor coverings. Flat cardboard miniature furniture was also supplied. (see photos)
Bliss and McLoughlin dollhouses are both very rare and thus also very valuable. Other manufacturers to look for are Gottschalk (Germany), Christian Hacker (Germany), Lines Brothers which later became Tri-ang (England), Schoenut (USA), Ideal (USA), Plasco (USA), Bluebox (USA) and Marx (USA). (See photos for examples)
Gottschalk Dollhouses:
Christian Hacker Dollhouses:
Lines Brothers (Tri-ang)Dollhouses:
Schoenut Dollhouses:
Marx Dollhouses:
Original dollhouse furniture can fetch anywhere between $50-$400 and up but later pieces can cost less than $20. Cast-iron dollhouse furniture by J. E. Stevens (C. 1870-1930) of Cromwell, Conneticut is particularily desirable. Later houses from the first half of the 20th century range in price from $200-$800 and on occasion up to around $3000, while an accesible area for new collectors is the wide range of mass-produced plastic dollhouses from the mid 20th century onward. These include the shocking pink and blue Barbie dollhouse by Mattel and also the Fisher Price dollhouse based on the television series Sesame Street.
Tips for dollhouse collectors:
-Original period dollhouse furniture is always worth buying as it is usually well proportioned and often very detailed.
-Buy objects connected with the running of a home such as dollhouse appliances. They are extremely popular and sell well.
-Buy and hang onto small dolls made as accessories for dollhouses. Especially those that are in good condition although many were often handled a lot. Those with their accessories and original doll clothing would be a great investment and should at least hold their value if not increase.
-Start with modern replica period dollhouse furniture if you are on a tight budget.
-Always have any dollhouse electrical components checked by an electrician.
-Examine the dollhouse style, decorative features, materials used, and also the size and condition of a dollhouse.
-Look at real life houses of the era to properly identify period dollhouse features.
Miniature Titania’s Palace
16 Sep 2008
Danish children’s book author Shane Brox guides you through one of the most beautiful dollhouse palaces in the world; Titania’s Palace. It was the name given to an intricately constructed edifice created by British peer Sir Nevile Wilkinson as a dwelling place for the Fairy Queen Titania, inspired by his small daughter Guendolen’s imagination. The Palace, which includes more than 3,000 pieces of miniature furniture and treasures, took almost 30 years to complete and was officially inaugurated by Queen Mary in 1922. It was exhibited throughout the world and raised the equivalent of 60 million danish kroner for the benefit of deprived and handicapped children, before it was sold by Guendolen in the late 60’s. As her father, she had a good heart too and the entire sales of the palace was donated to a children’s home. Today the palace can be visited at Egeskov castle in Denmark.
Duration : 0:3:15
How to make miniature potatoes for your dollhouse. This is an excellent tutorial video that makes very realistic looking potatoes on the inside and out!
Duration : 0:4:52
How to Make Miniature Popcorn with Soft Clay
05 Sep 2008
soft clay miniature food~pop cornHow It’s Made - Dollhouses
05 Sep 2008
“How It’s Made” on Discovery Channel, featuring Miniature Houses (=dollhouses); http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/How_It’s_Made
Duration : 0:4:47
“The Alchemist” at the Lakeland Miniature Show
05 Sep 2008
As part of a class using a roombox, this artist thought WAY outside of the box and created a lair for an alchemist.
Duration : 0:0:45
1/12th Dollhouse Miniatures Roombox
05 Sep 2008
Just a view of my dollhouse kitchen roombox—note the breadbox on mantle, 1-1/2″x1″x1″….handmade by me.
Duration : 0:0:47
